Snowpatch route bugaboos climbing

Climbers and hikers often use the 40person conrad kain hut, maintained by the alpine club of canada. Climbing in north america, chris jones, 1976 nomenclature this route goes by three names. Bugaboos south howser tower, bugaboo spire, snowpatch spire trip report with pictures steph fabian buhl makes solo winter ascent of 5. Tom egan wall, snowpatch spire, bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Bugaboo provincial park is one of the best alpine climbing destinations in the world. There are many classic climbs up the spire, including sunshine crack 5. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire. Since i saw the pictures of the bugaboo splitter cracks soaring above glaciers, ive been wanting to go to the bugaboos. Aug 01, 2017 john guy and i headed to the bugaboos for a few days of climbing in late july. The bugaboos or the bugs bugaboo provincial park is regarded as canadas best destination for alpine rock climbing. The approach involved a bit of glacier travel with some steep scree and loose dirt slopes to get up to the notch between snowpatch and son of snowpatch.

On the west face expect steeper terrain and more physical rock climbing and hand jamming than the other spires. The last rappel often requires two ropes to get past the bergschrund. The area however, is also home to numerous moderate mountaineering and scrambling objectives which allow for good alternate options during periods. Bugaboo spire is one of canadas great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain routei. This is also a great area for a backpacking trip if you looking for a challenging trip with. After climbing over the col walk south to your desired route. The mountain range is located in the core of the purcell mountains, on the border between british. Bugaboos guided alpine rock climbing in the bugaboos. As much as i enjoyed being in the alpine, i had several moments that i got nervous and was at the edge of my comfort zone. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to. The bugaboos are a worldclass alpine playground with striking granite spires that contain some of the most beautiful vertical cracks on earth for rock climbing. Rapping off the tower at dusk, he was back at the campground by 8 p. Bugaboos 2007 beckeychouinard, nw ridge hounds tooth.

In all, the bugaboos linkup totaled approximately 50 pitches. A competent team can run up the route fairly fast by simulclimbing much of the middle portion of the route which angles past the left side of snowpatchs namesake, a large patch of ice and snow hung on the left side of the. Its also a terrific option for less experienced climbers to choose to climb with a guide. The bugaboos are north americas answer to the french alps, offering the same high quality granite above beautiful glaciers like those found in chamonix, but with one big difference there are no telepheriques or huge crowds here, only the isolation and grandeur characteristic of the mountains of canada. We climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. Climb bugaboo spire, ne ridge, bugaboo spire trailhead. First climbed in 1916 by conrad kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since.

Therefore, the snowpatch route offers one of the more easily accessible alpine moderate routes in all of the bugaboos. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain routei always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire, and the striking crack that it held. Private climbing departures are very popular and are available from late june to early september.

Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents. If you head out to climb almost any of the bugaboos, youll probably skirt under or around snowpatch. Im breaking it up into a few reports for the individual climbs. John guy and i headed to the bugaboos for a few days of climbing in late july. On july 27, we summited bugaboo spire via the ne ridge. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing. Stanhope redpoints bugaboos hardest free climb climbing. Climb the kain route on bugaboo spire, bugaboo spire trailhead.

The mountain range is located in the core of the purcell mountains, on the border between british columbia and alberta. It stands just to the west of applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5. The last two climbs of the trip were both on the massive snowpatch spire. It was first climbed in 1940 and was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. But the story twists, bedayn and arnold found the upper headwall to be well within wiessners ability. What used to be a face known primarily as an aid climbing venue, is now covered in free climbing lines, although mostly difficult ones, usually reqiuring at least a couple pitches of 5. For routes on the north face follow the trail from the campground or hut toward the col.

Snowpatch spire and eastpost rest day snowpatch route 5. Snowpatch spire, with pigeon spire in the background on the right, hounds tooth and marmolata spire on the left. For our next climb we chose the snowpatch route on snowpatch spire iv 5. When you round the final corner on the long and winding logging road and see the full glory of the towering, dark granite spires rising directly out of tumbling glaciers, you will be in awe. One of the most spectacular climbing routes in western canada, the kain route up bugagoo spire is a complete classic for experienced climbers. The descent via the kain route went into the morning of july 28th. Snowpatch spire has worldclass hard alpine free routes.

You will eventually reach conrad kain hut and along the way have amazing scenery and views of glaciers. Climb in one of the worlds great alpine rock climbing areas. This is also a great area for a backpacking trip if you looking for a challenging trip with spectacular alpine scenery. Climbing with his longtime partner on the project, matt segal from the u. There are routes suitable for completely new alpine climbers to experienced rock climbing looking to push grades. Divine intervention topo we climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatchbugaboo col to a large, loose ledge. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. The climb ascends the southeast corner of snowpatch spire just left of its namesake snowpatch.

May 04, 2017 the scenic route a climbing misadventure on the northeast ridge of bugaboo spire. For a a real day, do the whole route after it meets up with the ne ridge of bugaboo spire, and then carry over and come down the kain route. Green and bensons bugaboo rock lists 37 routes on the peak. A steep wall of rock, known as a gendarme, creates a technical climbing crux on an otherwise scrambley line. Please visit our bugaboos ascents page for more details price. The kain route on bugaboo spire is one of canadas most iconic alpine climbs. Bugaboo, snowpatch, pigeon and the howser towers, this place has to be seen and experienced in order to really believe it from the beckeychouinard v 5. Snowpatch route, southeast corner, and wiessners route. With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch. Stanhope, segal free bugaboos tom egan memorial route at 5.

It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the. Hiking and climbing bugaboos provincial park, bc, canada duration. Jen climbing past the snowpatch on snowpatch spire. Tr bugaboos beckey chouinard, snowpatch route, british. We used a left variation on pitches three to five, ascending a long rightfacing corner to rejoin the line in the guidebook at the roof. The bugaboos have an enormous amount of excellent alpine rock climbing routes to choose from. Welcome to bugaboo rock guides, an alpine rock climbing and mountaineering guiding service specializing in bugaboo adventures.

Mar 27, 2020 bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Dec 18, 2015 august 17, 2015 canadian will stanhope has redpointed the tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire in the bugaboos. The howser towers from half way up snowpatch spire. Despite some somewhat iffy weather, we managed to climb some stellar routes.

Rock climbing in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos mountain project. The route takes a circuitous path to the base of the snowpatch, then up easy. The north east buttress is the most popular rock climbing route on bugaboo spire. Over the last decade or so, the 500meter high east face of snowpatch spire has been transforming into one of the finest alpine rock faces in north america. Just got back from 5 days in the bugaboos with my friend clint cummins. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. The bugaboos is home to north americas most amazing alpine rock. What to climb on your trip will depend on skill and the current conditions. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboo s. August 17, 2015 canadian will stanhope has redpointed the tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire in the bugaboos.

The current guidebook, bugaboo rock, left one name out. Trip and route logistics climbing news, videos, gear. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. The bugaboos of british columbia are an amazing group of huge granite spires towering above a sea of glaciers.

Located in the bugaboos provincial park, fred beckeys and yvon chouinards bold climbing lines follows. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the. It may have been the finest display of alpine skullduggery ive ever witnessed, what happened at the base of pigeon spire in the bugaboos that day. Will stanhope and matt segal have freed the 1978 aid line tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire, bugaboos, british columbia. What used to be a face known primarily as an aid climbing venue, is now covered in freeclimbing lines, although mostly difficult ones, usually reqiuring at least a couple pitches of 5. If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are. The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. Located near snowpatch spire, the hut replaced the original fibreglass igloos placed by bc parks. Rock climbing routes in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos. The route begins at the bugaboosnowpatch col and climbs mostly easy fifthclass up a ridge until the crux.

Bugaboo spire is one of the most phenomenal features in the climbing world. They climbed the pitch route in a single, fourday push, from august 11 to 14, calling the free climb grade v 5. This is a good way to enjoy the bugaboos without doing any rock climbing, and can also be a good option during poor weather. If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are much better places for alpine climbing in western canada than the bugaboos. Snowpatch spire 10,050 feet this dominant buttress holds over 50 routes from 5. Second, walk north to bugaboosnowpatch col and descend via rappels or downclimbing the 40 degree snow or ice. Bugaboos beckey chouinard, snowpatch route, hounds tooth date. The best and most accesible alpine granite climbing area in canada. A steep wall of rock, known as a gendarme, creates a technical climbing crux. Snowpatch spire was first climbed in 1940 by j arnold and r. Snowpatch spire 10050 is one of the hardest of the bugaboo. Tom egan wall, snowpatch spire, bugaboos supertopo rock.

Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing school. We climbed two classic routesbeckeychouinard on south howser and snowpatch route on snowpatch spire. There are two classic british columbia climbing routes. Bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. On my first trip to the bugaboos, i was 21 and working as a guide.

May 27, 2016 climbing in the bugaboos definitely opened up my world of climbing. Jon walsh on the second pitch of the beckeymather route on the east face of snowpatch spire in the bugaboos, right off the belay. The rock quality is exceptional and the whole route, top to bottom is. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. Snowpatch spire stands at 3,063 metres at the centre of the granite bugaboo towers. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world famous. All listings find crag find climbing wall find outdoor shop find climbing club find accommodation find instructorguide find gear manufacturers find goodsservices. Feb 06, 2012 the beckey chouinard may be the best alpine rock climb on the planet. A three hour hike brings you to the commodious conrad kain hut which provides the base for a. The kain route is the easiest and the original ascent route, first climb from the valley bottom in 1916. A competent team can run up the route fairly fast by simulclimbing much of the middle portion of the route which angles past the left side of snowpatch s namesake, a large patch of ice and snow hung on the left side of the east face. Soon after my first trip to the bugaboos in 2006 click for trip report and photos, i began to make plans to return to this amazing climbing meca. The beckey chouinard may be the best alpine rock climb on the planet.

Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents with. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chasing mastery. Apr 27, 2020 tom egan wall, snowpatch spire, bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. The bugaboos are, for many, the holy grail of alpine rock climbing in north america. Top on my list was the beckeychouinard route on south howser tower a fifty classic. A trip to kain hut is quite a challenging backpack. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chris september 2, 2016 september 2, 2016 1 comment ahhhh the bugaboos. However, this is a serious alpine climb, and further research of the current guidebook, and other resources is recommended.

The quality of the granite, the wilderness setting, the sharpness of the peaks, and the beauty of the surrounding glaciers all combine to put the bugs on every climbers hit list. The scenic route a climbing misadventure on the northeast ridge of bugaboo spire. The bugaboos are north americas answer to the french alps, offering the same high quality granite above beautiful glaciers like those found in chamonix, but with one big difference there are no telepheriques. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent canada, british columbia, purcell mountains, bugaboos. When you round the final corner on the long and winding logging road and see the full glory of the towering, dark granite spires rising directly out of tumbling glaciers, you will. Getting to the route requires mountaineering skills, and frequent storms and exposure add risks and challenges that arent well represented in the. Bugaboo spire trailhead search nearby added by erik turner.

Overview snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent. The kain route on bugaboo spire has 5 good pitches of climbing, the rest is scrambling and boot kicking in 40 degree snow and ice on the way to bugaboo snowpatch col. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain routei always looked at the black north face of. The bugaboos are a british columbia provincial park in canadas purcell mountains. Jan 14, 2019 jen climbing past the snowpatch on snowpatch spire. It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the crescent glacier.

There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. A competent team can run up the route fairly fast by. Climbing in north america, chris jones, 1976 nomenclature. The bugaboos is one of the worlds premier alpine rock climbing destinations. The steep walls and ridges of bugaboo, snowpatch and pidgeon spires as well as the howser towers are what hold the attention of most of our guests. The adventure of the bugaboos starts almost at the. There is more than one bolted route down the couloir. Trip and route logistics rock and ice magazine climbing. We climbed two classic routes beckeychouinard on south howser and snowpatch route on snowpatch spire. After a couple misstarts, we did some lostonsnowpatch route, to the left of north tower direct and right of flamingo fling.